1 






r% 



LIBRARY Of CONiiStSS 
Two Copies Received 

DEC 9 I9U4 

q Copynem tritry 
Jri+ru & . "?' «/ 
CUSS £?. XXc. Noi 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the Year 1904, hv 

LOUIS SCHULMAN, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



: /0 




PREFACE. 



In all my years of study and practice, 1 have deemed it necessary to publish this Sys- 
tem, which I find to be perfect in all respects. 

The knowledge which I have gained by working as a tailor, and the practice which I 
have received by teaching and cutting patterns, have enabled me to publish this book. 

The system herein published is practical and thoroughly explained in regards to all 
the points, enabling the student to understand its work. 

As the system published is on positive proportions, the cutter and student adopting 
the same can easily cut any size and shape with confidence and thorough success. 

The illustrations and form published in this book in regards to their styles are of an 
every-day necessity to the cutter. 

Feeling, perfectly satisfied in completing a work as thorough and reliable as this, I 
hope that my students will feel the same. 

Being a lover of tailoring, I am always a student. 

L. Schulman, Author. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



PANTS DRAFTING. 

THE FOREPART. DESIGN No. I. 

The following measure will be used for this design : 

Outside length 40 Inside length 30 

Waist 30 Seat 36 

Double Thigh 33 

Knee 17 1 2 Bottom 16 

Begin by drawing a line three-fourths of an inch from edge of paper. 

This line is shown on Design Xo. 1 as from A to D. 

For outside length begin at A, measure 40 inches down to D. 

From D up. measure inside length 30 inches for point B. 

Xow divide the length from B to D and mark knee point, one and a half inch higher, 
which is shown as point C. 

Draw lines at right angles from all these points. 

Starting from point B. which is the seat line, measure the double thigh ^^. to point E 
by the halves. 

In drafting these pants, it must be understood that the Halves. Fourths. Eighths. 
Thirds. Sixths, etc.. are found on an ordinary square. 

From point E to F is one-eighth of the double thigh, and allow one-half inch for 
point G. 

From point E upward to K draw a straight line at right angles with points E and B. 

From points H to E is same as from E to F. 

In this case, being two and one-eighth inches from E to F — E to H is also two and 
one-eighth inches. 

Then draw a straight line from H to point 2. and allow one-half of an inch for hip 
curve. 

From H to I is seven-eighths of an inch for crotch, and the same is divided in half 
for Dressing-Crotch, as shown. 

From K to J on the waist line is one-half inch, and from J to S is one-quarter of the 
waist measure. 30. which in this case is j l / 2 inches. 

Xow connect point J to I and I to G. 

Divide the difference from I to G for point V and onnect with point E. as shown. 

Then curve the Crotch and Dressing-Crotch, as shown on this Design. 

Divide the difference from F to B for center line, giving you point M, and draw a 
straight line through center of draft. 

Measure the knee seventeen and a half inches from point X by the fourths on both 
sides, giving you points P and R. 

The bottom is measured by advancing one-half of an inch from center line for point 
Z : measure sixteen by the fourths on both sides of same point, thus giving you points S 
and T. 

By taking one-half inch of both sides of bottom points S and T ( which you will allow 
on the back") connect points nearest to S and T ( as shown ) with knee points R and P. 

From point L at the waist curve to hip and connect with R. 

Now use curve ruler and connect points G and P. also Dressing.as shown. 

Hollow bottom of the Forepart. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



m 




w 



RTC 



THE FOREPART. 



DESIGN No. I. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



PANTS DRAFTING. 



THE BACK. DESIGN No. 2. 



When the front is cut out. place it on another sheet of paper, and continue for the 
Back, as shown on Design No. 2, which is explained as follows : 

Begin by drawing a line three-eighths of an inch below the front seat line, as shown 
by the dotted line. 

At knee extend lines a little longer, on both sides, and at bottom draw a line one-quarter 
of an inch. 

At bottom of draft, form point T of forepart to 10 of back is one inch and one quarter, 
and the same is divided in half. From S to 8 is one inch and a half, and this is also divided in 
half. 

On the knee line at point R to Y is one-half inch. 

From points P to W is three-quarters of an inch. 

Connect point Y and point between T and 10, and curve spring of bottom, as shown. 

The same is done on opposite side of draft, also round bottom of Back. 

The seat measure is only used on the seat line for back pants. 

From point M to 4 is one-third of the seat measure, 36, and from point 4 to 3 is one 
full inch allowed. 

From point G of the forepart to point 2 of the back is one-sixteenth of the double thigh 
and allow three-eighths of an inch for point six. 

Connect 6 and W with curve rules, as shown. 

From point O to 5 is one-sixth of the double thigh. 

Point R is used as swing to get the dotted line for back, as shown. 

From point 5 to 7 is one-quarter of the waist, which is seven and a half inches ; from 
point 7 allow two inches for point 9. Connect point 9 and 5. 

Connect point 9 and 3 to Y, as shown. 

Point X is connected with point 5, and the crotch for the back is curved, as shown on 
this design. 

Cut V in the back and thus complete Design No. 2. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



6 2 




THE BACK. 



DESIGN No. 2. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



PANTS DRAFTING. 

STOUT FOREPART. DESIGN No. 3. 

The measure for this design is as follows : 

Outside length 42 Waist 48 

Inside length 30 Seat 50 

Double thigh 47 

Knee 21 Bottom 19 

When drawing the stout, it must be understood that it is drafted the same as the pre- 
vious design. No. 1 , with changes for stout as follows : 

From point J to 3 is one-eighth of the double thigh. 

From point 3 to 5 is three-quarters of an inch. 

Connect point 5 and I, as shown, which gives you point 7. 

Now divide the difference from point 7 to J ; in this case being one and a half inches, 
will be three-quarters of an inch for point 9. 

The waist being 48 mark one- fourth of the same, which is 12 inches from point 9 
toL. 

Starting from point 9, mark through point 5 to I, and curving under point V, as shown 
to point G. 

At the knee, move one-quarter of an inch from point N, as indicated by a star. 

Then measure 21 by the fourths on both sides of star point, giving you points R 
and P. 

The bottom being 19 inches, is measured as in the previous design, also taking off 
one-half inch from both sides, as shown from points T and S. 

The hip is marked from L at the waist, past 2 to B. and curved a little inward to 
point R at the knee. 

The dressing-crotch is marked as shown. 

The bottom, being curved, the stout forepart is thus completed. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM 




*D 



STOUT FOREPART. 



DESIGN No. 3. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



PANTS DRAFTING. 

STOUT BACK. DESIGN No. 4. 



The front, being cut out, is placed on another sheet of paper and continued for the 
back, as shown on Design No. 4. 

Begin by drawing a line three-eighths of an inch below front seat line and at knee 
and bottom extend lines at both sides. 

The knee, being somewhat different in stout forms, it should be shaped a little 
inwardly, as shown. 

From point R to Y at knee is one-quarter of an inch, and on the opposite side from P 
to W is one full inch. 

At the bottom you allow the same amount for seams as in the previous design, being 
one and one-quarter inch from point T to 10, and one and one-half inch from point S to 8. 
and dividing the same in half. 

Connect knee points Y and W with points at bottom between S and 8 and T and 10, 
and mark spring as shown. 

Measure one-third of the seat 50 inches from point M for point 4, and allow one full 
inch for point 3. 

The centre line is drawn higher from point O ; to point 5 is one-sixth of the double 
thigh. 

Using point R as swing from point L, sweep down a line which is indicated by a dotted 
line to point 9. 

From point 5, measure one-quarter of the waist, which is 12 inches for point 7, and al- 
low two inches for point 9. 

Connect points 9 and 3 to Y. 

Connect point 5 and X, and by allowing one-quarter of an inch from point 5, curve 
it gradually on the seat line, bringing the seat-crotch three-quarters of an inch from point 
X, past G to 6. 

Connecting point 6 and W, also curve bottom of pants, as shown. 

The V at the waist is only cut out in the center, thus completing the back, Design 
No. 4. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 




STOUT BACK. 



DESIGN No. 4. 



10 SCHULMANS SYSTEM. 



PANTS DRAFTING. 

STOOPING STOUT FORM. DESIGN No. 5. 

The measurements for this design are as follows : 

Outside length 42]/ 2 Waist 48 

Inside length 30 Seat 49 

Double thigh 46 

Knee 21 Bottom 19 

This design is drafted the same as the previous stout form, with changes for the 
same, as follows : 

The front, being drafted straight from point 2 to R, and as we do not advance any- 
thing from point N at the knee, we proceed for the back. 

The seams for the bottom are the same as in the previous design. 

At the knee .from point R to Y is three-quarters of an inch, and from point P to W 
is also three-quarters of an inch. 

By advancing one full inch from point 5 to A, connect point A with X, and also 
marking the seat-crotch, as shown. 

The waist being 48 inches, place one-quarter of the same from point A to 7, also al- 
lowing two inches for seams. 

By placing one-third of the seat measure from point M to 4, and allowing three-quar- 
ters of an inch to point 3, we connect points q, 3 and Y, and also connect points 9, 5 and A. as 
shown. 

By finishing the same as in the previous design and also cutting the V as shown, we 
have completed stooping stout design No. 5. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



II 




STOOPING STOUT FORM. 



DESIGN No. 5. 



12 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



PANTS DRAFTING. 

BOW-LEGS. DESIGN No. 6. 



As I have said before, the Cutter must take particular notice to the shape and form 
of the legs (of the party being measured). 

The accompanying (Design No. 6) is explained as follows: 

For the bow-legs, we use the following process, the pattern being drafted regular, 
without paying attention to the shape of the legs. 

When the pattern is cut out, fix a point three-quarters of an inch (as we find it suf- 
ficient for ordinary bow-legs) from B to A, and fixing point C a little lower than knee line. 
This being done, we fold B to A, and fix inside length according to measure needed, thus 
giving you a correct and useful method for ordinary bow-legs. 

KNOCK -KNEES. 

The method just explained can be used for knock-knees BY REVERSING THE 
LINES. 

Using point D, we fix three-quarters of an inch from E to F, and connect the same 
with D, as shown, thus giving you the proper method for ordinary knock-knees. 

BENT LEGS. 

We sometimes find people that are not exactly bow-legged, but find they have bent 
legs. We apply this useful method as follows : Fixing J between the knee and bottom lines, 
we connect with point L, being one-third of the difference between the knee and bottom lines, 
and fixing one-half inch higher for point M, we connect with point J, as shown. 

SMALL AND LARGE THIGHS. 

Sometimes we find the double-thigh to measure, more or less, than what it should 
be for proportionate forms. 

We use the following process for altering the ordinary pants pattern : 

For narrow thighs, we shape the front from the hip inwardly, as shown at point P 
and I and O and S of back, also taking out a little at crutch at K. 

Finding this to be useful and practical method, we use the same process for chang- 
ing the ordinary pants pattern for large thighs, according to measure required, bringing the 
crutch out at K, and points of fork at G, also at H and S of back and R of front. 

Thus giving the cutter and student a practical and useful method for altering the ordi- 
nary pants pattern. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM 



13 




BOW - LEGS. 



DESIGN No. 6. 



14 SCHULMANTS SYSTEM. 



PANTS DRAFTING. 

BICYCLE PANTS. DESIGN No. 7. 

The measure for this design is as follows: 

Outside length 42 Waist 31 

Inside length 32 Seat 37 

Double thigh 34 Knee 13J/2 

By drawing the outside line, as from A to D, and marking lines at right angles from 
B, R and D, as shown. 

From B to E being one-half of the double thigh and from E to F is one-eighth of the 
double thigh, and allowing three-quarters of an inch for point G, as it is necessary in this de- 
sign to have a big fork. 

By connecting points E and K, as shown, allow three-eighths inch to point J, and by 
lowering the front one-half inch from point J, measure one-quarter of the waist from point L. 

Allow one inch from point 2 to point N, for hip. 

Divide the difference from R to D in three parts, point K being one-third of the same 
and allow three inches for a cuff to point H. 

Measure thirteen and a half by the fourths from point H to C, and allowing one and 
one-eighth to point 9, also from H to D and to 8 is the same as on the opposite side. 

Starting from point L at the waist, draw hip curve, passing through N, connecting 
with three-fourths of an inch off point R at the knee to 8 at the bottom. 

Draw a line at right angles with F and B for point P, as shown, and from point G 
curve to point P at knee and to point 9 at bottom. 

Divide the difference from 9 to H and H to 8 in half. 

Cut V's three-eighths of an inch wide and two and a half inches long, also rounding 
bottom, as shown. The front being cut out, continue for the back. 

From point O to 5 is one-sixth of the double thigh, and also allow three-fourths of an 
inch to point S. 

By placing the dotted line at the top measure one-quarter of the waist from point S 
to 7, also allowing two inches for point 9. 

Connect point 9 and S, as shown. 

Measure one-third of the seat from M to 4. Allow two inches for point 3. 

Allow one inch from point R at knee to Y, and one-half inch from 8 to 10. 

Connect point 9 at the waist with points 3, Y and 10, as shown. 

Allow one-half inch from point 9 at bottom to point 12. 

From point P at knee to W is also one-half inch. 

From G to 2 is one-sixteenth of the double thigh, and allow three-fourths of an inch 
for point 6. 

Connect points 6 and \V to 12. 

Connect S and X, and curve the seat one-quarter of an inch from S down to point 6. 

Cut V's at the bottom in the back, and round the same, as shown by the dotted line, 
thus completing the bicycle pants. Design No. 8. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



15 




BICYCLE PANTS. 



DESIGN No. 7. 



16 SCHULMANS SYSTEM. 



PANTS DRAFTING. 

RIDING BREECHES. DESIGN No. 8. 

The same measure can be used for this design as the Bicycle Pants. 

We also use the same process to fix all the points on the seat and waist lines. 

This being done, we apply one-half the inside length, as from C to B; in this case 
being 16 inches. 

Apply one-third of the length ( 16) to D and allow 3 inches for cuff to point E. 

Draw lines at right angles from these points. 

Fix one-quarter of knee ( 13^2 ) from centre line at point N for points S and T. 

Apply one-quarter of knee at bottom from P for V, and one-eighth of the same for U, 
also allowing one-quarter of an inch to the same. 

The cuff extending from 8 to H is buttoned around to side of front. 

To fix points for same, we apply two-thirds of the length from B to E (being $ l / 2 
inches), and apply for the width of cuff to enable it to be buttoned at side of front, as 
shown. 

The front being cut out. we use the same process in fixing the points for back, on the 
seat and waist lines, as it was explained in Bicycle Pants. 

At knee fix three-quarters of an inch from S to W and the same on the opposite side 
for point Y. Apply one-half inch from front for points 15 and 20. 

To fix point E, we measure the bottom of front from V to U and apply the same to 
point 20 and fix 13^2 inches over to point E, allowing 1 inch for seams. 

The back is then finished from 9 past 4 and Y to E. 

Allow three-quarters of an inch for button-stand, as from Y to E, as shown, thus 
completing the Riding Breeches. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTKM. 



17 




U E 



RIDING BREECHES. 



DESIGN No. 8. 



IS SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



PANTS DRAFTING, 

LARGE SEAT AND FLAT HIPS. DESIGN No. 9. 

Measure for this is : 

Waist 34 Seat 40 

Double Thigh 36 

Length, knee and bottom are the same as in the first design. 

The same process is used in designing this form, with the changes for the same as 
follows : 

By placing one-half of the double thigh from D to E, and one-eighth of the same to 
F, we allow three-eights of an inch for point G. 

By fixing point K at waist we allow three-quarters of an inch for point J and curving 
the croch slightly round from J to G, as shown. 

Measure one-quarter of the waist from J to L, and, as the hips in this form are very 
flat, curve from L to 2 very slightly. 

The front is cut out ; then continue for back. 

When the waist points are fixed as in regular pants we connect points 5 and X, as 
shown. 

The seat being very large in this form as the figure shows it. and in some cases more 
or less, we allow from point B to C one-half inch, and from 5 to S one-half inch. 

From G to 2 is one-sixteenth of the double thigh and one-quarter of an inch is allowed 
for point 6. 

Curve from S to C, past F of the forepart to G, as shown. 

By placing one-third of the seat measure from M to 4 we allow three-quarters of an 
inch to point 3. 

By connecting points 9 and 3 we finish pants as in the regular. 



SCHULMANS SYSTEM 



19 





Figure for 

LARGE SEAT AND 

FLAT HIPS. 

No. 9. 



LARGE SEAT AND FLAT HIPS. 
DESIGN No. 9. 



20 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



PANTS DRAFTING. 

ROUND HIP AND FLAT SEAT. DESIGN No. 10. 



The measure for this design is as follows : 

Outside length 41 Waist 34 

Inside length 303^ Seat 40 

Double thigh 2>7 l A 

Knee 18 Bottom i6 l / 2 

In drafting this design we place outside length, inside length, waist line, seat line, 
and bottom line the same as in the regular pants drafting. 

By fixing one-half of the double thigh from B to E and one-eighth to F. allow five- 
eighths for point G. 

When point K is made we allow one-quarter of an inch for point J, and connect J 
with point G, as shown. 

Measure one-quarter of the waist from point J to L. 

Allow three-quarters of an inch from point 2 at hip. 

At the knee from point N we measure one-quarter of the same on both sides for 
points R and P. and the bottom is also measured as in the previous design. 

Connect point T and R to B, as shown, and from L at the waist curve hip to B. 

We use the same process as in bow-leg pants in this design, as this is also bow-legged. 

The front being cut out, continue for the back. 

When the seams at bottom are fixed, we allow three-quarters of an inch from point R 
to Y at knee and the same from point P to W. 

When the point of seat is fixed we allow one and a half inches for point 3, also using 
the same process in placing points for 2 and 6, and connecting points 3, Y and 10, as shown. 

When the point from O to 5 is fixed, measure one-quarter of the waist to point 7 
and allow two inches to point 9. 

Connect point 5 and X, and shape the seat as shown. 

Connect point 9 and 3, also using same process as in the bow-legged form and finishing 
by cutting a V in the waist, as shown. 

NOTICE. 

In taking the measures for the figures Xos. 10 and 11 take particular notice as to 
the shape and form of the party being measured. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



21 




Figure for 

FLAT SEAT AND 

ROUND HIPS. 

No. 10. 




DESIGN No. 10. 
FLAT SEAT AND ROUND HIPS. 



22 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



HOW TO MEASURE PANTS. 



1 wish to call attention to my students and to those who buy my books that there are a 
few things in particular in regards to pants cutting. 

First : the measure. 

The measure is taken accordingly as follows : 

Outside length on ordinary pants should be taken from hip down to heel. 

Second : Inside length, which is taken high in the crotch, to avoid the short length 
measurement. 

Third : The waist is measured on the pants and the seat is measured next. 

Fourth : Double thigh .which is one of the most important measurements, should be 
taken a little below the seat, which in most cases you will find it to be three inches less than 
the seat measure. 

The knee and bottom is measured according to the style, or as the customer would 
like to have it. 

The cutter taking the measure in some cases will find that the party being measured is 
bowdegged or knock-kneed, and furthermore take particular notice as to the shape of his seat 
and hips, as in some cases will be noticed that the party having a large seat and flat hips, of 
which I have in this book a Design and Figure for the same. 

Also a design and figure for the narrow waist, flat seat and large hips form. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTKM. 



23 





HOW TO MEASURE PANTS. 



24 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



VEST DRAFTING. 

SINGLE BREASTED. DESIGN No. 11. 

The vest being drafted the same as in the coat, you need only know the opening and 
the total length. 

In order to give thorough instructions, we will use the following measures for this 
design : 

Waist length 17^ Arm blade 1 1>4 

Front Measure I2>4 Opening 13 

Length . 25^ Breast 36 

Waist 33 

We begin by drawing right-angle lines, as from A to G and A to Y. 

Measure one-quarter of the breast, as from A to D, for depth of arm, and ij l / 2 for 
waist length from A to W ; it must be understood that, when mentioned, one-half, one-fourth, 
one-eighth, one-sixth, etc., we find, them to be on an ordinary square. 

Divide the difference from A to D for point H and measure one-sixth of the breast 
from A to S, which will give you shoulder poin t. 

Draw straight lines at right angles from all these points. 

Advance one-half inch from W to 7 and connect to point H, as shown. 

As this line is one-quarter of an inch from point D, we measure the arm blade 1 1 1 / 2 
inches to point B, allowing one-half inch for point 3, and measure one-half the breast 36 
to point M, also allowing two inches for seams to point 5. 

Now divide the total width from 5 to one-quarter of an inch from point D, thus giving 
you point H for centre line of vest. 

From point A to C is one-eighth of the back blade and allow three-quarters of an inch 
fur point 1, also raising the neck three-eighths of an inch higher. 

Connect point 1 and B for point 9, also H and B, as shown. 

Draw a straight line through point 9, which gives you point E. 

Raise the neck three-quarters of an inch from point I and 2. 

We connect point between 1 and 2 with E. 

Point 6 is three-quarters of an inch lower than H using the same as base line for 
arm hole. 

Now shape the neck from point A to 2 and the shoulder from 2 to E, also curving 
arm hole from E through H to 6. 

The arm blade being n>^, and as we have allowed one-half inch for point 3, we 
measure the total from point D to 3, thus placing the same from 1 to B. 

As we advance one-half inch from point 3 to four, we connect front shoulder line 
with point B. 

Now, measuring the neck from A to 2 and the depth of arm from A to D, we find 
the total to be 12)4 inches. 

Allowing one-quarter of an inch more for front shoulders, measure the same from 4 
to B, reducing the neck measure three inches from total of V2 l / 2 , we get point F. 

Allow three-eighths of an inch from B to 12, and one-sixth of the back blade from 
12 to Y, we raise the front shoulder one inch from E to P and connect P and 12, as shown. 

Measure the back shoulder; in this case being 534 inches, the front should be reduced 
one-quarter of an inch from point Z. 

Divide the difference from 3 to R for point H and advancing one-half inch from point 
H, as shown, connect with point Z, curving arm hole from Z, passing R to 4, and connect 
with 6. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



25 



Connect point Y and 5 at breast with 8 al waist. 

The total length being 25 y, inches, we allow three-quarters of an inch for seam-. 

We measure the same, taking off three inches for neck measurement for point I.. 

Measure also the opening to point L in the same way. 

Measure the back blade, being one inch less than the breast, by the halves for point I. 

From line advanced one-quarter of an inch from 1) to |. and by drawing a line from 
J at right angles with J and D, it will give you point J on the waist line. 

From point J to C is one-eighth of the back blade, and from C to X is one-quarter of 
the waist, also allowing one and a half inches for seams to point 8. 

The vest back must he three-eights of an inch longer than the front, which we connect 
with point G, also raising one-half inch from point G. 

By measuring C to X we find it to be 8% inches. 

We allow one inch to the same, and measure from point 8, g>4 inches. 

We also measure gyj inches from point 7 to 11. 

We finish the vest by shaping the front side from 6 between points C and 10, and the 
back from point 6 past 1 1 to bottom, as shown. 

The bottom button should he one and a half inches from the bottom of the vest, and 
the top one-half inch inch lower than the opening; divide the space between for as many 
buttons as necessary. 

Mark pockets for the vest as shown. 




S. B. VEST. 



DESIGN No. II. 



26 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



VEST DRAFTING. 

DOUBLE BREASTED. DESIGN No. 12. 



The measure for this design is the same as for single breasted. 

We use the same process in drafting this design, with the changes for double breasted, 
as follows : 

When the line from Y to L of the vest for the length is fixed, we continue for the 
double breasted. 

We advance three-quarters of an inch from point B to 12. 

As the opening in this vest is 13 inches, point L is fixed for same. 

Measure the difference from point Y to L. 

In this case it is 10 inches. 

From L to H is one-half of the same, being five inches. 

The button stand is made according to the style, which in ths case is four inches 
from H to A. 

At bottom, from point O to V is two inches ; connect point V and A as shown. 

The bottom of the vest must be cut so that when folded over on the forepart it will 
take the same shape as forepart. 

The collars for the single and double breasted will be explained later. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



•21 



Y 12 B 




D. B. VESTS. DESIGN No. 12. 



28 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



VEST DRAFTING. 

S. B. TUXEDO. DESIGN No. 13. 

Measure for this design is the same as for single breasted. 

We use the same process in drafting this design, with changes for Tuxedo, as follows : 

When the points for the breast and waist are fixed and the line from Y to L at length 
is fixed, we continue for the Tuxedo. 

The opening for a 36 size should be 19^2 inches, and the length should be one-half 
inch shorter than a regular vest. 

From B to 12 is five-eighths of an inch. 

The opening is measured by deducting three inches for neck to point L. 

When the line for the same is fixed, we shape the shoulder, as shown. 

Divide the difference from A to M and M to L. 

From H to O is two inches. 

We shape the opening from 12, past H and O, to L, as shown. 

Cut V about three-quarters of an inch at point H, also to allow one-half inch for 
button stand and placing buttons as shown, thus completing the S. B. Tuxedo. 



VEST DRAFTING. 

D. B. TUXEDO. DESIGN No. 14. 

In drafting this design, we find it to be nearly in all particulars the same as in the 
single-breasted tuxedo with the changes for the same, as follows : 

From point B to 12 is three-quarters of an inch. 

We allow three and one-half inches from L to A for buttonstand and one and three- 
quarters from D to V. 

We shape the opening, as shown ,also cutting the bottom so that when folded over 
on the forepart it will take the same shape as forepart. 

Cut a (V) three-quarters at point H, thus completing the double-breasted Tuxedo. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



29 



12 B 





S. B. TUXEDO. DESIGN No. I 3. 



D. B. TUXEDO. DESIGN No. 14. 



30 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



VEST DRAFTING. 

STOUT VESTS. DESIGN No. 15. 

When drafting this design we will find it to be the same as the previous in respect to 
all the points, with the changes for the same as follows : 

The measure for this design is : 

Breast 44 Waist 46 

Waist length i8}4 Armblade 13^ 

Opening 14K' Length 28y 2 

Shoulder length 14^2 

We find it necessary to use the back blade when drafting stout forms. 

We find the depth of arm to be ten and a half inches for this size. 

The same is fixed from A to D, also fixing the waist length to W and marking one- 
sixth of the back blade for shoulder point S. 

We draw straight lines from all these points. 

We fix the armblade to point B, allowing one-half inch for point three, and advance 
one-quarter of an inch, as shown. 

When the point for breast is fixed at M we advance one-half inch for point L ami 
allow two inches for point 5 ; now divide the full width in half for point 11. 

The reason we advance one-half inch in the breast and take one-quarter out at arm- 
hole is because the waist being two inches more than the breast, we advance one-quarter 
for every inch that the waist is more than the breast, as in this case, the breast being 44 
and the waist 46, we find the difference to be two inches, of which we advance from M to 
I one-half inch and advance one-quarter more at the armhole. 

When the point for back blade is fixed, as shown by point J, we also find point J 
on the waist line. 

From J to C is one-eighth of the back blade, and from C to X is one-half of the 
waist, also allow one and a half inches for point 8. 

Connect points Y, 5 and 8, as shown. 

The neck is raised one-quarter of an inch, and from point 1 to 2 is only raised five- 
eighths of an inch. 

The shoulders and armhole are finished , as shown. 

The armblade being now thirteen and three-quarters inches, we measure the same from 
point 1 to B. 

When the front shoulder length is fixed for point F, we find it to raise one-eighth of 
an inch above the line. 

Measure opening and length, and allow three-quarters of an inch for seams to 
finish length. 

From point H to C is one-eighth of the back blade. 

Connect L and C, and finish the back, as shown. 

Finish the back, as shown. 

We use the same process in measuring the waist as in the regular, as explained. 

From C to X you will find it to be eleven and a half inches, we allow one inch to the 
same for point 10. 

We also measure the same from 7 to points between 6 and 10, and shape the sides for 
the front and back, as shown. 

We finish this draft by placing the bottom pocket three and a half inches at the side 
and four inches at the front. 

We open the vest at the pocket and fold the same, as shown by the dotted lines, thus 
giving you the full effect for waist. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM 



31 




S. B. STOUT. 



DESIGN No. 15. 



34 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE. 

When taking the measure the sack coat is removed and all the measures are taken 
over the vest. 

To thoroughly understand how to take the measure, the following is explained for 

the same : 

First adjust a belt around the waist (this belt can be furnished by me), noticing that 
the belt rests on the hips and is perfectly on a level in front and back. 

Use the small square, fixing the short end on shoulder bone; for shoulder height 
measure as shown by figure No. i. 

Next apply the small square under arm, as shown on figure No. 2, and bring the tape 
over center of back, this measure giving you the armblade. Notice that this measure is taken 
a little tight, as we alow one-half inch to the same. 

Also fixing a mark on center of back. 

Now measure as follows: The shoulder height first, the depth of arm second, the 
waist length third, to center of belt, and the length of coat according to the style required. 

Fix the small square and tape attachment under arm ; to get the front length, meas- 
ure, as shown, to A on figure No. 2. 

Now measure sleeve length with tape from small square under arm to L, a little 

lower than wrist. 

When measuring the breast we must take particular notice that the tape is applied 
over the fullest part of chest. For small sizes, take the breast measure a little loose, and 
for stout forms take the measure a little close. 

The waist is measured next, taking notice that the tape is applied over the hips. 

Take close on fat figures and easy on proportionate forms. 

When measuring over coats, we use the same process as just explained, only when 
drafting the overcoat we cut the same two sizes larger, also finding it necessary to take the 
seat measure for overcoats. 



THE VEST MEASURE. 

The same measures are used for breast and waist when drafting the vest, finding it 
necessary to make the waist length one inch longer for vests. We need only know the open- 
ing and length ; these measures are taken from center of neck or seam, as shown on figure 
1 , at point A, for opening and length. 

Take particular notice that the vest is properly smoothened around the part being 
measured . 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



3b 





FIGS. HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURE. 



32 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



SINGLE-BREASTED NOTCH COLLAR, No. 11. 

When drafting the notch collar, we measure the neck of the back and opening. 

We find the same to be three inches. 

Fix a line, as from L to F, reducing the length of neck for A. 

Divide the difference as from A to F. 

Advance one and one-half inches for point E. 

Fix a point three-quarters of an inch from B for C and D. 

Fix one inch from E to K and from E to H. 

At point L allow one inch, and connect with K. 

Connect point H and F, as shown. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED COLLARS, No. 12. 

To draft the double-breasted vest collars, we find it necessary to measure the neck of 
the back and also the full opening, as from 12 to A, on Design No. 13. 

We find the full length to be 17 inches. 

Fixing a line, as from I to B, we apply the full length. 

Reducing the length of neck for point A. we divide the difference, as from A to B, for 
point C. 

Fix a point one and one-half inches higher for D and one inch higher for E. 

As this is a flat collar, we shape the neck, as shown. 

Advance one and one-half inch from neck line for point F. 

Fix two and one-half inches for point G. 

Fix one and one-quarter inch from line for point J and connect J and H, finishing 
the collar, as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 




S. B. NOTCH COLLAR, 
DESIGN No. 11. 



D. B. COLLAR. 

DESIGN No. 12. 



36 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COATS' DRAFTING. 

S. B. SACK. DESIGN No. 17. 

The following measures will be used for this design : 

Armblade 1 13/2 Shoulder height 3 

Depth of arm 9 Waist length 16^2 

Length 28 Shoulder front 12 

Sleeve length 18 Breast 36 

Waist ^t, Seat measure 39 

Height 5 feet, 6 inches 

The vest, having been explained, we will find that the upper points are the same as for 
coat, and for thorough instructions we will explain as follows : 

We find the shoulder height to be three inches and the same is from A to S. 

The depth of arm being nine inches, we allow one-quarter of an inch for a seam for 
point D. 

Measure the waist length sixteen and one-half inches to W, and the full length to 
point L. 

Draw lines at right angles from all these points. 

When the armblade is fixed, as from D to B, we also advance one-half inch for point 
3 ; we allow one-quarter of an inch for the breast, and two and a half inches for seams for 
point 5. and also allow one and a half for a button stand to point P. 

From A to C is one-eighth of the back blade. 

Allow three-quarters for point 1. and raising the neck three-eighths of an inch, we 
allow three-quarters of an inch for point 2. 

Connect points H to B and I to B. 

Draw straight line through point 9, as shown. 

We divide the difference from H to S for point E, also advancing one-half of the 
same for shoulder point. 

Draw a line three-eighths of an inch below T, also advancing one-quarter of an inch 
for back, three-eighths of an inch for opening, and three-eighths of an inch for armhole 
point, as shown. 

From 7 to O is one-third of the back blade. As I have explained, when drafting the 
vest, that the back blade is one inch less than the breast. 

Draw a straight line at right angles with 7 and O for point 1 1. 

Advance one-half inch from point 11 to 14, and connect 14, as shown. 

Shape the neck as from A to 2, and the shoulder and back as from T to O. 

From point D to 3 is twelve inches, and allow one-quarter of an inch to the same from 
point 1 to B. 

We measure the shoulder length, as from A to 2 and to D, and we find it to be twelve 
and one-quarter inches. 

We add one-quarter of an inch to the same, and use the same process in placing point 
F as 1 have explained when drafting the vest. 

When the line for the shoulder is fixed, as from point P to F, we reduce one-quar- 
ter of an inch from point Z and shape the shoulder to point 12, as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



37 




S. B. SACK 



DESIGN No. 17. 



38 SCHULMANS SYSTEM. 



DESIGN No. I 7 (Continued). 

Advance three-eighths of an inch from point B to \2. 

From B to C is one-eighth of the back blade. 

From Y to 12 is one-sixth of the back blade, and allow one and a half for point P. 

Connect points C. and Y ; from C to K is one-sixteenth of the back blade. 

The neck is curved from \z to K, as shown. 

Draw a line one-half of an inch below B ,as for an armhole base line. 

Curve armhole from Z past one-half inch from H, through 4, resting on the base line 
at bottom to J at top. 

Measure one-half of the back blade from line one-quarter of an inch off D to J. 

When measuring the arm blade and breast, it must be understood that the same is 
measured from line, being one-quarter of an inch from point D. 

Draw a straight line from J to bottom, as indicated by point J. 

From 13 to C is one-eighth of the back blade. 

From C to X is one-quarter of the waist. 

Allow two inches for seams for point 8 and one and a half for button stand for 
point P. 

Connect points Y, 5 and 8, also connect points P at the top and P at the breast, and 
point P at the waist, as shown. 

From point J to J is one-half of the back blade, also allowing two inches to point V, 
and lowering the front one and a half inches to point 6. 

Shape the front from P at waist to bottom. 

There is no definite points in drafting the front, as it is cut according to style. 

We place a point three-quarters of an inch from 13, as shown by point I. 

This being done because we find the breast to be three inches more than the waist. 

As I have explained before that we take out at waist one-quarter of an inch for every 
inch that the breast is more than the waist, as in this case the breast being 36 and the waist 
33, we find three inches difference. 

Now measure from C to X, and you will find it to be eight and a quarter, and then 
measure the width of the back as from 7 to O, and you will find this to be six inches. 

By placing 6 inches at point C, you will find it to be seven and three-quarters inches 
to point I. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 39 



DESIGN No. 17 (Continued). 

By moving seven and three-quarters inches from point I to point 13 of the back blade 
line, we mark eight and a quarter for point 10, and allow one-half inch, as shown. 

Measure the difference from point J to I3,and you will find it to be seven inches. 

Reduce one inch and measure same from 13 for point G. 
From G to C is one-eighth the seat measure, 39. 

As I have explained when drafting the pants that the seat measure for a proportion- 
ate size should be six inches more than the waist. 

Connect point three-eighths of an inch from T, at armhole with point one-half inch 
from 10 at waist and point C at seat, and shape the sides as shown. 

We place the pockets measuring from point D two-thirds of the sleeve length, being 
eighteen inches, and fixing one-half inch higher from the same for point 20. 

We draw a straight line from point 4 toU, giving us the centre of the pocket and con- 
nect a line with point 20. 

The pocket and cash flap are placed as shown. 

In drafting a three-button coat, the button hole is on the same line with the cash flap, 
and for a four-button coat we will make the button hole between the flap and the cash flap. 

The top pocket is marked according to style. 

In placing the notches for back and front, we measure the depth of arm as from A to 
D, and find it to be eighteen and a half by the halves. 

We measure the same for back notch, from point 9 is one-sixteenth and three-eighths 
higher and for front notch from point 4 is one-half inch lower. 

The collar can be drafted on the coat. 

Measure the length of the shape, according to style, and connect a line with point 12. 

From 12 to 22 is three inches for the neck measure and one and a quarter inches for a 
stand below 22 and one and three-quarters for width of collar to point R. 

As the width of the collar for the shape is according to style and in this case we find 
it to be one and a quarter, and connect the same with point R. 

Shape the same as shown, thus completing the coat. 



40 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



COATS' DRAFTING. 



D. B. SACK. DESIGN No. 18. 



When drafting this the points are the same as the single breasted, just explained, with 
the changes for the D. B. as follows : 

When the line from Y past 5 at breast to 8 at waist is fixed, we allow three-inches 
for a button stand, as from Y to P and from 5 to P and 8 to P. 

Connect outside points P, as shown. 

Draw a straight line at right angles with P and 8 for V. 

From V to J is three inches, and from J to 6 is also three inches ; connect same with 
spring. 

When points C and Y are fixed, shape the neck one-half inch lower and three-quarters 
of an inch beyond K. 

Point O being two inches higher than shoulder line, we take off three-quarters of an 
inch from same and make shape, as shown. 

As there being no definite points for the shape, which is made according to style. 

Also making the collar as explained for single-breasted, with the exceptions that the 
same is opened one-quarter of an inch from lapel. 

Cut V under point K, thus completing the double-breasted coat. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



41 




D. B. SACK. 



DESIGN No. 18. 



42 SCHULMAN'S -SYSTEM. 



COATS' DRAFTING. 

TUXEDO. DESIGN No. 19. 



When drafting this, the points are the same as the single-breasted, with the changes 
for Tuxedo as follows : 

When the point for breast is fixed, we allow two inches for seams to point 5 and allow 
one and a half inch to point P. 

When point at the waist is fixed, we allow one inch for 8 and one and a half inches 
for P. 

Connect these points, as shown. 

Divide the difference from point P at the breast to point P at the waist for point H, 
and allow one and a half inches for point N. 

When the pocket is fixed, as it was explained when drafting the S. B. coats, we 
raise one and a half inch from pocket for point Z. 

Advance three-quarters of an inch from point B to O. 

Connect point O to Z, as shown by dotted lines. 

When point K is fixed, curve neck from B past K. 

At point 1 on the neck line advance three-quarters of an inch for point 2. 

Connect 2 and Z, and connect point Y and N ; curve the shape to Z. 

Draw a straight line at right angles with points 8 and P for V, fix one and a half 
inches for point J, and allow the same for point 6, connect 6 and Z, as shown. 

As it is necessary to cut a clam in Tuxedo, we divide the difference from B to J and 
connect with one inch from pocket, as shown, thus completing the Tuxedo. 



SCHULMANS SYSTEM. 



43 



P Y OB 




TUXEDO. 



DESIGN No. 19. 



44 SCHULMA.N'S SYSTEM. 



COATS' DRAFTING. 



STOOPING FORM. DESIGN No. 20. 



The measure for this design is as follows: 

Arm blade 12 Shoulder height 3^ 

Depth of arm 10 Waist length 173^ 

Length 29 Shoulder front 12 

Sleeve length 18 Breast 36 

Waist 33 Seat measure 37 

We use the same process in placing the points according to measure. 

The shoulder height being three and one-quarter inches, the same is from A to S. 

Depth of arm being nine and one-half inches, we will find the same to D. 

Waist length comes next, and the length follows. 

When point one-half inch from W to 7 is fixed, connect same with H and one-half 
inch from L at bottom, as shown. 

We raise the neck one-half inch, thus giving us the full length of shoulder height and 
depth of arm. 

When point C is fixed, we allow three-quarters of an inch for point 1 and one-half inch 
for point 2. 

When point for armblade is fixed, as shown by point B, we connect the same with 
points H and I. 

Shape back as shown from A to D. Allow one-quarter of an inch from 11 to 14, and 
finish the back as in the previous design. 

When point B is fixed, we find it to be one-quarter of an inch more than from D to B. 

Use the same process in measuring the front shoulder length according to the meas- 
ure and allow one-half inch to the same for point 4. 

When the point for breast and waist is fixed, we finish the front, as shown. 

At bottom from point V to 6 is one inch and connect the same. 

\\ nen point G is fixed, we measure one-eighth of the seat, in this case being four 
inches more than the waist. 

Raise the point at armhole from T one-quarter of an inch, also shaping the side round 
to waist and finishing the spring at seat. 

As the back must be set higher in this form, we place notch for forepart one-quarter of 
an inch higher from waist line and notch for back on the waist line, as shown, also using the 
same process fur placing notches for armhole and back, as in the single-breasted. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



15 




STOOPING FORM. 

Fig. No. 20. 



STOOPING FORM. 



DESIGN No. 20. 



46 SCHULMANS SYSTEM. 



COATS' DRAFTING. 

CHICKEN BREAST. DESIGN No. 21 



The measure for this design is as follows : 

Armblade 1 1 Shoulder height 3 l / 2 

Depth of arm 9 Waist length i6y 2 

Length 28>4 Shoulder front 123^ 

Sleeve length 18 Breast 36 

Waist 31^ Seat measure 38^ 

We use the same process in placing the points according to measure. 

The shoulder height being three and a half inches, the same is done as from A to S. 

Depth of arm being nine inches, we find the same to D. 

Waist length comes next and the length follows. 

When point 7 is fixed, connect with points H and L, as shown. 

The armblade being eleven inches, we find the same to be from point D to B, also 
allow one-half inch for point 3. 

Raise neck three-quarters of an inch higher for back, as shown, thus giving you full 
length for shoulder height and depth of arm. 

Next fix point for breast and allow two and one-half inches for point 5 and one and 
one-half for point P. 

We find point B to be one-quarter of an inch more than from 3 to D, and when line 
for shoulder front is fixed we allow one-half inch to the measure and fix point F for the same. 

From B to 12 is three-quarters of an inch, and finish the neck as shown. 

We advance one-half inch from point T of the back to J of the forepart and finish 
armhole. 

The same process is used in finishing the side and shoulder for the front. 

At bottom we allow two inches from point V to 6, as it is necessary to have a long front 
for this form and connect the same with spring. 

When the back blade line is fixed, as shown by J, we advance from point 13 to I one 
and one-eighth inches, as it is necessary in this case. 

As I have explained before that we take one quarter of an inch out at waist for every 
inch the breast is more than the waist. 

Points X, 8 and P are then fixed accordingly. 

The waist is then measured with the same process as in the previous design for point 
10, also allowing three-eighths of an inch. 

When point G is fixed, we measure one-eighth of the seat, in this case being 
thirty-eight and one half inch for point C. 

Connect point at waist with C at seat, and shape the side. 

The notch for back we raise one-quarter on an inch from waist line and notch for 
front ; we find it to be on the waist line, thus bringing the back one-quarter of an inch lower 
for this form. 

For armhole and back use the same process for placing notches as in S. B. Sack. 

Cut a clam as it is necessary for this form, also placing pockets as it has been explained 
in the previous design, thus completing Design No. 21. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



47 




CHICKEN BREAST. 
Fig. No. 2 1 . 



CHICKEN BREAST. 



DESIGN No. 21. 



48 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



HIGH SHOULDER FORM. 

DESIGN No. 22. 



The measure for this design is as follows : 

Front shoulder n l / 2 Depth of arm &y 2 

Armblade n^ Shoulder height 2 

Waist length 16 Length 28 

We use the same process in placing the points according to measure. 

The shoulder height being two inches, you find the same from A to S. 

Depth of arm being eight and one-half inches, we find the same to point D. 

The waist length and length is then fixed accordingly. 

As this form shows only how the shoulders are worked, it is not necessary to explain the 
rest. 

When armblade is fixed as to point B, we connect same with H and I. 

From A to C is one-eighth of the back blade; one-half inch allow for point 1 and 
one-half inch for point 2. 

When point for shoulder is fixed at E, we shape the shoulder, as shown, finishing the 
back as we did in the previous design. 

We find point E of the shoulder to be one inch and the same to point P. 

Measure the armblade as from D to 3, and allow one-half inch more as from I to B. 

When line for shoulder length is fixed, we use the same process as in the previous de- 
sign for point F. 

Shape the neck as from A to 2, and curve the shoulder from 2 to E. 

When points P and B are connected, we shape the shoulder, as shown. 

From points B to 2 is one-quarter of an inch less than the back shoulder. 

The neck is curved, and the armhole is finished as in the previous design. 

The sleeve indicated by the heavy line is shown as for regular shoulder. 

The dotted lines indicate for high shoulder forms. First one, showing moderate 
height. Second one, which is indicated by the dotted lines, are for very high shoulders. 

It must be understood that the sleeve for this form can be cut regular . 

When cut out it should be placed on draft of coat, as shown, and then remodeled ac- 
cording to height necessary. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



49 




HIGH SHOULDER FORM. 
Figure No. 22. 



HIGH SHOULDER FORM. 
DESIGN No. 22. 



50 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



SLEEVE DRAFTING. 

DESIGN No. 23. 



When drafting the sleeve we find it necessary to measure the depth of arm, as shown, 
on an ordinary coat from A to D, giving us the measure to work the sleeves with, which 
you will find to be i8y 2 by the halves. 

We will find the length to be 18 inches. 

We begin by drawing a line as from A to L and to M. 

We then apply the one-third as from A to O. 

The length is then applied as from O to L, and the same is then divided in half for 
point H. 

Draw straight lines across all these points. 

Next fix point being half of the width from A. 

From V to M is one-quarter of the width. 

Frow W to J is one-half the width. 

At point V we draw a small line, as shown, and measure half the width from point W 
tn fix point J, also connect both points, as shown. 

Connect points O and M. 

When these lines are fixed we find the centre point C. Draw a straight line through 
point C. 

We allow one inch from point J to V and P. 

Allow one inch at bottom from 3, fixing points Y and Z. Connect V and Z and P and 
Y as shown by the dotted lines. 

Connect points J and 3. 

From point 3 to O is one-third of the width. Allow three-eights of an inch for point 
4, and one and three-quarter inches for point 5. 

From W to K is one-sixteenth of the width. 

Advance three-eighths of an inch from point K and connect with point N, being one- 
quarter of an inch from centre line. 

Divide the difference from point N to A for H, also dividing the same from H to A, 
drawing a small line. Next shape the curve for undersleeve, as shown. 

We use the compass for head of sleeve, placing the needle at point N, we apply the 
width of compass to point H and draw the head of the sleeve as from H to W. 

Next apply the compass, using the needle for point between H and A, and applying 
the width to point H at top, rounding from H to point between P and J. 

When this is done, we shape the rest of the head as from centre of the sleeve through 
pi lint J to point F. 

At the elbow we advance five-eighths of an inch for point T, and advance five-eighths 
of an inch for point R and one-quarter of an inch from line for point H. 

Shape the sleeve as from F to Z and P to Y, as shown. 

Connect points W and H and 5 for top sleeve. 

Connect point K and point on the elbow with point 5 for under sleeve, finishing the 
liuttuni by connecting points 3 and 5. 

We find the notch for the top of sleeve to be at point J, thus completing the sleeve. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



51 




Z 3 v 



SLEEVE. 



DESIGN No. 23. 



52 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



FULL BOX OVERCOAT. 

DESIGN No. 24. 



The measure for this design is as follows : 

Armblade 12 Shoulder height y/ 4 

Depth of arm 9M Waist length ijy 2 

Full length 46 Shoulder front 13 

Sleeve length 18^ Breast 38 

Waist 35 

When drafting the Overcoat, use the same measure as Sack. Draft the Overcoat two 
sizes larger. 

We use the same process for placing the points, with the changes as follows : 
Fix the shoulder height to be three and a quarter and raise three-eights from same 
for point S. 

We find the depth of arm to be nine and three-quarters, and the same is fixed from 

A to D. 

We then fix length of waist to W and full length to L. 

On the waist line from W to 7 is one-half inch ; we advance the same for point R. 

Connect point 7 and H and connect point S and R. 

Point C being one-eighth of the back blade, we allow three-quarters for point 1 and 
raise the neck one and one-quarter inches, also allow one-half inch for point 2. 

We fix the arm blade according to measure, as it has been explained in the previous 
design, also allowing one-half inch for point 3. 

Apply one-half of the breast and allow three-eighths to the same for point M, and 
allow two and a half inches for seams to point 5 and two and a half inches for a button stand. 

Connect point H with B and 1 with B. 

At point 9 we advance one-quarter of an inch and draw a straight line down to bottom 
of the back, giving us point 1 1 . 

The point for the shoulder is then fixed, and at point T we lower the arm of back 
three-quarters of an inch and advance from the same three-quarters of an inch for point O. 

We allow two inches from 11 to 14. 

Connect [4 and O and shape the neck and shoulder and arm of back as shown. 

Measure full width of arm blade from line one-quarter of an inch off point D to 3. 

Allow one-half inch to same and apply full width as from 1 to B, also advancing 
one and one-quarter for point 12. 

We fix one-sixth of the back blade for point Y, and allow two and one-half inches 
for point P. 

When the line for the front shoulder is fixed, we measure the front shoulder length 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



53 




FULL BOX OVERCOAT. 



DESIGN No. 24. 



54 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



DESIGN No. 24 (Continued). 

to fix point F. 

When point P is fixed, we connect with point B. 

Next measure the back shoulder from 2 to point E, and by reducing three-eighths off 
the same we apply the width as from 12 to Z. 

Shape the shoulder of front three-quarters of an inch below Z, passing through F to 
point 12. 

The armhole is then finished as from point Z at shoulder, passing through 4. resting on 
the base line of arm hole to point O. 

Next apply one-half of the back blade from outside line at D to J. 

When point 13 is fixed on the waist line, we mark one-eighth of the back blade for 
point C and one-quarter of the waist from point C to X. 

Allow one and one-half inches from X to 8 and two and one-half inches from 8 to P. 

Fix point N two and one-half inches higher from waist line, and connect same with 
point P. 

Then apply the square for a right angle line with points P and N for V. 

Fix point J at bottom two and one-half inches and four inches lower for point 6. 

Fix line from point P at the top and breast and waist. 

Then apply one-sixth of the back blade as from 13 to G, and fix one-eighth of the seat 
measure for point C, and allow one inch for poi nt Q. Connect points O and Q. 

Connect points 6 and spring for forepart . 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 55 



DESIGN No. 24 (Continued). 

Advance one-quarter of an inch from point 6 under arm for forepart and connect with 
point at waist. 

Fix notches for back and front accordingly. 

We find that the notches for back rest on the waist line. 

The notches for the front are fixed one-half inch lower than the waist line and we 
fix the point of arm hole under O one-half inch lower. 

Notches for the back and arm hole are then fixed as it was explained in the previous 
design. 

We also cut V in the neck. 

We apply two-thirds of the sleeve length as from D to 20 to fix the depth of pocket. 

We find the centre of the pocket from B to U. Then fix the length on both sides of the 
same. Button holes are then placed as shown , and the top pocket and length of shape is fixed 
according to style, thus completing the Full Bo x Overcoat. 



NOTICE. 

When drafting the overcoat it must be understood that for heavy weight goods it 
should be cut two sizes larger than a sack, and for light weight or cravenette cloth one 
size larger. 



56 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED ULSTER. 

DESIGN No. 25. 



The measurements for this design are as follows : 

Armblade 12 Shoulder height . . .- yA 

Depth of arm 9-M Waist length 17]/? 

Full length 52 Shoulder front 13 

Sleeve length 1^/2 Breast 38 

Waist 35 

We find the Ulster to be, in regard to the points, the same as a sack coat, with the 
changes for ulster as follows: 

When the points for the shoulder, depth of arm, waist, length, and total length are 
fixed, we advance one-half inch from W to 7 on the waist line and connect with point H. 

Next fix point at arm blade to B and allow three-eighths to one-half the breast for 

point M. 

Allow two and one-half inches for point 5 and three and three-quarters for a button 

stand to point P. 

We find the points for neck the same as the sack coat. 

Raise the neck one inch, and allow one-half inch for point 2. 

When point O is fixed on the waist line we allow three-quarters of an inch for point O. 

When point 11 is fixed on the bottom, we allow one and one-half for point 14. 

Next fix point for slit in back as follows: Divide the difference from L to W for 
point 22. Then raise one-sixth of the back blade for point R. and make the slit one 
and 1 ine-quarter inch wide. 

When point B is fixed for the neck, we allow one inch for point 12. 

Next apply one-sixth of the back blade from 12 to point V and three and three-quarter 
inches for point P. 

When the line for the front shoulder is fixed, we next finish the shoulder line. 

Then measure the shoulder front from point F. and shape the shoulder as shown. 

We next apply the point for the neck and at point I we lower the same one inch and 
shape the neck as shown. 

Then finish the arm hole as in a sack. 

We then fix back blade point J and draw a straight line down. 

We apply one-eighth of the back blade from point 13 to C, and one-quarter of the 
waist from point I' to X, two inches from point X to 8 and three and three-quarter inches 
for point P. 

We then connect point for breast and button stand. 

The waist is then measured as it has been explained in the sack coat for point 10. 

Measure the length from point 13 to J and the same is applied from 13 to G. 

From G to C is one-eighth of the seat measure. 

Connect same with point one-half inch from 10 and shape the side and spring of fore- 
part. 

Fix V at neck and button holes as shown, thus completing the Ulster. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



57 




D. B. ULSTER. 



DESIGN No. 25. 



58 SCHULMANS SYSTEM. 



DESIGN No. 25 (Continued). 

THE COLLAR. 

When right-angle lines are fixed, as from A to C and E, we fix one square inch for 
point 2. 

We need only know the length of neck, in this case heing nine and one-quarter. 

The width is sometimes made according to style. 

We apply the length, nine and one-quarter, from 2 to E, and the width from B to C, 
we then draw a right-angle line with E and A for point F. 

From E to F is the width of the collar. 

From point F to G is one-half the width. 

Connect point F and C, and E and G. 

From B to D is one and one-quarter inches. 

Connect D and C as shown. 

Fix the stand for the collar and the same as shown, thus completing the collar. 



NOTICE. 

When cutting the Ulster it must be understood that the same varies in size, according 
to the cloth which is used for the Ulster. For Melton, we cut the Ulster two sizes larger ; 
for a chin chilla cloth we cut the Ulster three sizes larger. 



STOUT SACK. 

DESIGN No. 26. 

The measure for this design is as follows : 

Armblade i^y 2 Shoulder height 3^ 

Depth of arm 10^2 Waist length 17% 

Length 30J/2 Shoulder front 13^ 

Sleeve length iJ l /$ Breast 44 

Waist 46 Seat 49 

Height 5 feet 6 inches 

We use the same process for fixing all points, with the changes for stout as follows : 
When point for shoulder, depth of arm, waist length, and length are fixed, we draw 
straight lines across from all these points. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



.V.i 




S. B. STOUT SACK. 



DESIGN No. 26. 



60 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



DESIGN No. 26 (Continued). 

We next apply the arm blade according to measure for point B. 

Allow one-half inch for point 3 and advance one-quarter of an inch at arm hole as 
shi iwn. 

Next apply one-half the breast and advance one-half inch for point I. 

We allow two and one-half inches for seams to point 5 and one and one-half inches 
for a button stand. 

The reason we have advanced one-half inch in the breast and one-quarter of an inch 
at arm hole has been explained when drafting the stout vest. 

At the neck we raise one-quarter of an inch at point A and three-quarters from 1 to 2. 

The back is then finished as in the regular sack coat, with the changes for the same 
as follows : 

At point 9 we advance one-quarter of an inch, thus giving us a wider back, which is 

necessary for a stout. 

Then fix points Y and P. 

When the line for front length is fixed, we use the same process in measuring front 
length for point F as has been explained when drafting the regular sack. 

Next fix shoulder line and finish shoulder and neck as shown. 

We apply the back blade for point J, and draw a straight line down as indicated by 
dotted lines. 

Use the same process for placing the points according to measure for the waist as has 
been explained in the sack coat. 

Measure the width as from C to X, which we find to be eleven inches. 

Measure width of back as from 7 to O and apply the same to point C. 

Fix eleven inches for point 10 and allow one-half inch to the same. 

Then fix point G and apply one-eighth of the seat measure for point C and finish the 
side of forepart as shown. 

Connect points at breast and waist and button stand. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 61 



DESIGN No. 26 (Continued). 

Apply one-half the hack blade at the bottom from J to J, allow two inches for point V 
and lower the front two inches for point 6. 

Arm hole is then finished. 

When the pocket is fixed according to sleeve length, we draw line to point N at arm 
hole and pocket. 

Divide the difference from 6 to bottom button hole to fix point R. 

The waist being two inches more than the breast, we apply two half-inches on both 
sides of point R. 

We cut open on line N, connecting at pocket, also cutting in the full length pocket. 

Then fold lines at R, thus giving us the full effect for waist. 

The notches for the back and arm hole are fixed as it was explained in the sack coat. 

We find it necessary to fix notch for forepart in Stout one-quarter of an inch lower 
than waist line, and notch for back to rest on the waist line. 

When this is done we shorten arm hole point one-quarter of an inch at point J. 

Fix button holes and length shape according to style, also cutting a V in the neck, 
thus completing the Stout Sack. 



62 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



STOOPING FORM. LARGE WAIST. 



Fig. No. 27. 




Stooping Stout and Large Waist. 

DESIGN No. 27. 

The measure for this design is as follows : 

Armblade 14 Shoulder height 3^ 

Depth of arm 11 Waist length i8y 2 

Length 31 Shoulder front 13^ 

Sleeve length 17 Breast 44 

Waist 47 Seat 49 

Height 5 feet 5 inches 

We use the same process for fixing all . points, and alter according to measure as 
follows : 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



63 




60 



STOOPING FORM AND LARGE WAIST. 



DESIGN No. 27. 



64 SCHULMANS SYSTEM. 



DESIGN No. 27 (Continued). 

When the lines for depth of arm. waist length, and length are fixed, we draw straight 
lines across from all these points. 

We find this form to have low shoulders. Apply the shoulder length as from A : S 

When point 7 is fixed at waist, we advance one-half inch at bottom point L. 

W"e fix point C and 1 at the neck and raise the neck one-half inch, and allow one-half 
inch for point 2. 

Next apply arm blade for point B and allow one-half inch for point 3. also advance 
three-eighths at arm hole. 

Fix one-half the breast measure over to point M. and advance three-quarters of an 
inch to point I. 

Allow two and one-half inches for seams and one and one-half inches for a button 
stand. 

The back is then finished. 

Measure the width of arm blade and fix the same as from I to B. 

When the line for front shoulder is fixed, we use the same process in measuring it as 
has been explained. 

We find point F to rest one-quarter of an inch below point B. 

Connect shoulder line and finish shoulder and neck as shown. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 65 



DESIGN No. 27 (Continued). 

Then fix point J for back blade line. 

Use the same process for measuring the waist to fix point 10 as has been explained 
when drafting sack coat. 

When point G is fixed, we apply one-eighth the seat measure for point C. 

Finish the side of forepart and then finish arm hole. 

When front lines are finished, we fix point 6 two and one-half inches lower from V. 

The bottom is then finished as shown. 

At point N at arm hole we open the same one-quarter of an inch and connect line with 
pocket. 

The same is cut down to pocket, also cutting open the full length of the same. 

We find the difference for lapping at point R to be three-quarters of an inch. 

This is done, as we need the same to give us full effect for waist. 

The notches are then fixed for side of forepart accordingly. 

At the arm hole and back we find it to be fixed the same as in the previous Stout. 

As we find it necessary in this form to have the back set higher, we fix the notch for 
the back one-quarter of an inch higher and the notch for the front rests on the waist line, thus 
completing the Stooping Stout. 



66 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



BROAD CHEST STOUT. 



Fig. No. 28. 




BROAD CHEST STOUT. 



DESIGN No. 28. 

The measure for this design is as follows: 

Armblade 13^ Shoulder height 3^ 

Depth of arm 10 1 /. Waist length 18 

Length 30 Shoulder front 13K 

Sleeve length 17 Breast 44 

Waist 45 Seat 49 

Height 5 feet 6 inches 

We use the same process for fixing all points, with the changes for Broad Chest Stout 
as follows : 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



67 




A 20 



BROAD CHEST STOUT. 



DESIGN No. 28. 



lis SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



DESIGN No. 28 (Continued). 

When the line for the shoulder, depth of arm, waist length, and length are fixed 
according to measure, we draw straight lines across from all the points. 

Next apply measure for arm blade to point B. 

Allow one-half inch to 3, and advance one-eighth at arm hole. 

Fix one-half the breast to point M and advance one-half inch to point 1. 

Allow two and one-half inches for seams and one and one-half inches for a button 
stand. 

Advance one-quarter of an inch from point 9 of the back and finish the same as shown. 

When point B for the neck is fixed, we connect from line for point F; in this case 
we find the neck to raise one-quarter of an inch above the line. 

The shoulder and neck are then finished. 

When back blade line is fixed we use the same process to fix the points for the waist. 

This being done, we finish the front as shown. 

When point G is fixed, we fix one-eighth of the seat measure for point C, as it is 
necessary for this form to have a large seat. 

The side is then finished, and the bottom is connected as shown. 

When the pocket is fixed we connect line with point N at arm hole, also fixing the 
lines at point R. 

We use the same method to give us the effect of the waist as has been explained in 
the previous Stout. 

We then fix notches accordingly. 

The notches for the back should be raised one-quarter of an inch above the line. 

Notches for forepart should rest on waist line. 

The draft is then finished by cutting a V at the neck and fixing the button hole and 
length of shape, thus completing the Broad Chest Stout. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 69 



SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK. 



DESIGN No. 29. 



The measure for this design is as follow s : 

Armblade nj4 Shoulder height 3 

Depth of arm 9 Sleeve length 18 

Shoulder front ........ 12 Fashionable waist length 18H 

Natural waist length . . . 16K Breast 36 

Length 35 Waist 33 

We use the same process for fixing all points, with the changes for Single Breasted 
frock as follows : 

When the lines for shoulder height, depth of arm, natural waist, fashionable waist, 
and full length to L are fixed according to measure, we allow one inch longer for skirt to 
point 22 and draw lines across from all these points. 

At point N of the fashionable waist we advance three-quarters of an inch to point 7, 
and connect same with point H. 

Allow one-half inch off line A and fix hook for back from point X. 

Next apply the arm blade for point B, and use the same process for fixing the breast 
point and button stand as has been explained when drafting the Sack. 

Fix one-eighth the back blade from 7 for point O on the fashionable waist line. 

Draw a straight line at right angles with O and 7 for A E. 

Fix point C and 1 and raise the neck three-eighths of an inch, finish the neck and 
shoulders. 

Connect point H of the back with B and H at arm hole. 

At point T advance one-quarter of an inch and connect with point y 2 from W on the 
natural waist line, giving us point HE. 

Divide the difference from point HE and AE, giving us point H. 

Finish the back from point T, passing through H to O. 

Allow three-quarters of an inch for pleat from point O for back. 

Measure the full with of arm blade and use the same to fix point B at neck. 

Advance three-eighths for point 12 and fix one-sixth the back blade from B for point 
Y and one and one-half inches for point P. 

As there is no difference in fixing the points for the shoulder front line we finish 
the same as it has been explained when drafting the Sack. 

Fix one-half the back blade for point J and draw straight line down to bottom and 
advance one-half inch to U. 

Advance three-quarters of an inch from point 13 to I and fix one-eighth the back- 
blade for point C. 

Next apply one-half the waist ; from C to point X allow two inches for point 8 and 
one and one-half for a button stand to point P. 



70 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



DESIGN No. 29 (Continued). 

Finish front to waist line as shown. 

The waist is then measured accordingly. 

Measure back on natural waist line, which you will find to be two and three-eights, 
and apply the same to point C. 

You will find it to measure four and one-half inches to point I. 

Shift the same over to point 13 and fix eight and one-quarter inches for point 10. 

Draw a straight line up and down from point 10. 

Advance one-half inch from point T for arm hole, and seven-eighths from point NE, 
and finish arm hole as shown. 

Fix point one-half inch lower from fashionable waist line for side body to 15 and 
finish same, taking particular notice that there should be a difference of three-eighths of an 
inch between side body and back, passing on point of line 10 and shaping down to point 10 
and connecting with point 15. 

Finish side body from U to 13 and 15. 

Measure the length from point B at neck to point 15 at side body and apply the same 
from B for point R. 

The front is then finished as shown. 

Point G is fixed, being one inch less than from 10 to H. 

Apply one-eighth the seat measure from G for point C. 

Finish the spring of skirt as shown, and allow three-quarters of an inch for pleat. 

We then fix one-half the back blade from J at bottom to V, and fixing point 6 one 
and one-half inches lower, we finish the front and bottom of skirt. 

We fix a point three-eighths of an inch lower from side body for point 20. 

Finish the skirt from 15, passing through point 20 to the front, bringing the skirt 
down one-half inch lower from point R. 

We finish the V at waist and notches for back and arm hole are fixed as explained. 

The buttonholes and shape are fixed as shown, thus completing the S. B. Frock. 



.SCHULMANS SYSTEM. 



71 



P Y 12 B 




S. B. CUTAWAY. 



DESIGN No. 29. 



72 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK. 



DESIGN No. 30. 



The measure for this design is as follows : 

Armblade 11^2 Shoulder height 3 

Depth of arm 9 Natural waist length. . . i6^4 

Fashionable waist length 18^4 Length 40 

Shoulder front 12 Sleeve length 18 

Breast 36 Waist t,^ 

Seat measure 39 Height 5 feet, 6 inches 

The same process is used for fixing all points, with the changes for Double Breasted 
Frock Coats as follows : 

We find the back and side body, also the arm hole and front shoulder, and the points 
to be the same as in the Cutaway. 

We allow three-eighths to one-half the breast for point M, and three inches for seams to 
point 5. 

On the waist line at point C we advance one-quarter of an inch. 

When point X is fixed at the waist, we allow two and one-quarter inch for point 8. 

The neck and front are then finished. 

Fix a straight line connecting with point 8 at waist. 

We apply the same measure as from B to 15 for point R. 

We raise the front three-eighths of an inch higher and finish the same as shown. 

The revere is then fixed accordingly. 

At the breast we allow three inches for point P, and at the waist two and one-half 
for point P. 

Connect points P for revere. 

Fix a point two and one-half inches higher from NK and then finish the point and 
shape of revere. 

Draw a straight line at right angles with R and 15 for point V. 

Fix point 6 three inches lower and advance three-quarters of an inch from V for 
skirt. 

Bottom is then finished as shown. 

Fix a point one inch lower from side body for 20, we find that one inch is sufficient 
for this lenght and in longer lengths it is necessary to take out a little more. 

The waist of skirt is then finished. 

Fix the V at waist and button holes for the revere, thus completing the Double 
Breasted Frock, 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 




D. B. FROCK. 



DESIGN No. 30. 



74 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



FULL DRESS COAT. 



DESIGN No. 31. 

The measure for this design is as follows : 

Armblade Ii^ Shoulder height 3 

Depth of arm 9 Natural waist length. . . i6^4 

Fashionable waist length 18^ Length 38 

Shoulder front 12 Sleeve length 18 

Breast 36 Waist 7>i 

Seat measure 39 Height 5 feet, 6 inches 

The same process is used for fixing all points, with the changes for Full Dress Coat 
as follows : 

We find the back and side body, also the arm hole and front shoulder points to be 
the same as in the Frock. 

We allow three-eighths to one-half of the breast for point M and two and three- 
quarters for seams to point 5. 

On the waist line at point C we advance one-quarter of an inch. 

When point X is fixed on the waist line we allow one and three-quarters for point 8. 

The neck and front is then finished. 

We apply the same measure as from B to 15 for point R and finish the front as shown. 

The revere is then fixed accordingly. 

Fix a straight line advancing one-quarter of an inch from breast and waist. 

At the breast we allow two and three-quarters for point P, at the waist we allow one 
and one-half for point P. 

Connect points P for Revere. 

Fix a point two inches higher from NK, and then finish the points and shape of re- 
vere. 

Fix a point three-eighths of an inch lower from side body for 20. 

When point G is fixed, we apply one-sixteenth of the seat for point C, and finish 
spring of skirt. 

Finish the skirt from 15, passing 20, bringing the skirt three-eighths of an inch lower 
from point R. 

Apply the same width of bottom of revere for skirt to point U. 

Draw a straight line across, as indicated by a dotted line from point U. 

Measure the width from point 8 at waist to 10 at side body, which we find to be 16^ 
inches. 

We apply one-third of the same from point U to Z. 

It must be understood that point Z of the skirt should be one-quarter of an inch wider 
than at the front at U. 

Apply one-third of the back blade at bottom from T to V. 

Connect points V and Z, and finish the skirt, as shown. 

The V at waist and buttonholes for rever are then finished, thus completing the full 
dress coat. 



SCIIUL MAN'S SYSTEM 




FULL DRESS COAT. 



DESIGN No. 31. 



76 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



STOUT S. B. FROCK. 



DESIGN No. 32. 



The measure for this design is as follows : 

Armblade l^ 1 /- Shoulder height tfA 

Depth of arm io^4 Shoulder front 13^ 

Length t>7 Breast 44 

Sleeve length 17*4 Waist 46 

Seat 49 

Natural waist length. . . . 17^2 Fashionable waist length ig l / 2 
Height 5 feet. 5 inches 

We use the same process for fixing all points with the changes for the stout cutaway 
as follows : 

When the lines for shoulder height, depth of arm, natural waist length and fashion- 
able waist length and full length to L are fixed according to measure, we allow one inch 
longer for the skirt to point 22, and draw lines across from all these points. 

At point N at the fashionable waist we advance three-quarters of an inch to point 7. 

Connect same with point H. 

Allow one-half inch off line A and fix hook for the back from point N. 

Next apply the armblade for point B and fix one-half inch for point 3, and advance 
one-quarter at armhole. 

Apply one-half the breast to M and advance one-half inch to point I. 

Allow two and one-half inches for point 5, and one and one-half for point P. 

The reason we have advanced at breast and armhole has been explained when draft- 
ing the stout Vest. 

Fix points C and I and raise the neck one-quarter at point A, and finish the neck and 
shoulder. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM, 




STOUT CUTAWAY. 



DESIGN No. 32. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



DESIGN No. 32 (Continued). 



Fix one-eighth the back blade from 7 for point O, and advance one-quarter of an inch 
at point T, and finish the back. 

When point B is fixed at neck ,we use the same process as has been explained for fix- 
ing shoulder point F. 

The shoulder and neck is then finished. 

Apply one-half the back blade for point J. 

Draw a straight line down, giving you point 13. 

When point C is fixed, we advance one-quarter of an inch, as shown, and the points 
for the waist are then fixed accordingly, and the front is finished. 

Fix a point one inch from NE and one-half inch from J to point U at armhole. 

The armhole is then finished. 

Use the same process for fixing point 10, as it has been explained when drafting the 
stout sack. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 79 



DESIGN No. 32 (Continued). 

When the line from point 10 is fixed, we finish the side body to point 15. 

Fix point G and apply one-twelfth the seat measure for C. 

Finish the spring of skirt and allow three-quarters of an inch for a pleat. 

The side body is finished at point 13, and the front at NB. 

Apply the length from B to 15 and fix the same over to point R. 

The front is then raised a little, and finish the same. 

Fix point 20 three-eighths of an inch lower from side body. 

The skirt is then finished from point 15, passing through 20 to R, and opening one- 
half of an inch at VE. 

Connect points P and VE, as shown, by a dotted line, giving you point V at bottom. 

The skirt is then finished at front and bottom. 

We fix the clam at waist and notches for back and armhole, and V at neck as it has 
been explained. 



NOTICE. 

We sometimes find it necessary to cut a one-button cutaway for stouts. 
The same is shown, which is indicated by a dotted line. 



80 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



CLOSE CAPE. 

DESIGN No. 33. 



The following process is used to draft the close cape : 

We use a tight-fit overcoat pattern, laying it down just as it is drafted. 

Starting at S, draw a straight line, and fix one-half the size, 36, over to point A. 

Draw a line at right angles, with A and S, and fix one-quarter of the size for point C. 

Fix one-sixteenth of the size on both sides of point C for E and D. Connect points 
E and D. 

Advance one-half of an inch on the waist line at point O and connect points S at neck, 
and fixing the length of cape, 25, or according to measure from point S. 

At point 2 advance one-half inch, and finish shoulder of cape through point C. 

Fix the compass at point 2, get length to L, and swing over to M, finishing cape of 

back. 

Fix point 3 three-quarters of an inch higher from C, and draw a little line at right 
angles with 3 and A to fix point 5. 

Advance one-half inch higher at point 3, neck of front, and apply the length as from 
2 to M, and fix the same from 3 to R. 

Apply the length from S to L, and fix the same for front length as from 3 to K. Cut 
a V at point 5, thus completing the close cape. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



M 




CLOSE CAPE. 



FORM No. 33. 



8-2 SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



THE INVERNESS CAPE. 

FORM No. 34. 



We find that the most reliable way to draft the Inverness cape is by using a tight-fit 
overcoat pattern. To thoroughly understand to draft same, we use the following process: 

The back being laid on a sheet of paper, we fix at point C three-quarters of an inch. 
For point A. we apply two inches from back and apply two and one-half inches from back 
tor point D. Draw a straight line for center of the back, as shown. The back is then 
finished, starting at the neck we shape the shoulder, taking three-quarters of an inch off 
shoulder point B, connecting with C. Also fixing the notches back for shoulders, as shown 
by points I and P, thus completing the back. 

THE FRONT. 

The front being laid on a sheet of paper, we fix a straight line from armhole notch 
B and apply one-half the size for point H. 

Draw a straight line at right angle with H and B. and apply one-sixth the size for 
point Y. 

Connect point P and Y, as shown by dotted line. Apply total length of sleeve, being 
3 1 inches from A to point L. 

Next apply the width of compass, fixing the needle at point A, and length to point L. 

Now draw the swing line to point N, giving you front length of cape. 

Fix point T two and a half inches from L. and finish the cape from shoulder, run- 
ning round at point T. 

The cape at the front is then finished, running high at neck, at point C resting on the 
shape line and finishing one inch from point N. 

The armhole is then completed from B to K. as shown. 

Apply one-sixth the size from T to point O, thus giving you the notch for opening at 
bottom of cape. 

The cape is then completed by fixing a V at shoulder point P and the notches are then 
fixed accordingly. Apply the compass, fixing needle at point P and length to K. Draw the 
swing to point S. 

Fix point V three-quarters of an inch higher from point S. 

This point V being a notch, it must match to point A of the back, also being under- 
stood that point A must match with point K of forepart. 

Points I and P of front shoulder must match with points I and P of back, fixing the 
back points three-quarters of an inch difference. 

For working in the back shoulder the same process is used to fix point R on the cape 
to match with point C of the back. 

Thus completing the Inverness cape. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



83 




THE INVERNESS CAPE. FORM No. 34. 



THE INVERNESS CAPE. 
FORM No. 34. 



84 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 




LONG ROLL COLLAR. 



FORM No. 35. 

As this collar is very important in regards to the shape and length, we find it neces- 
sary to use the following process for drafting the same : 

The back and front are placed together, as shown, also placing the revere at the front. 

Fix a line from A one inch to B. 

The length of shape is then fixed at E. 

Connect E and B. as shown by dotted line. 

Fix the width of collar from point of neck to D. 

The neck is then measured as from D to F. 

The front is then folded over at point X. and the length is measured from N to O. 

Allow one inch for a stand to C. 

Shape collar from O past C and K to N. 

The revere being placed to the front, we fix the collar three-quarters of an inch nar- 
rower than revere. 

The collar is then finished as from D to revere and O, thus completing the long rolled 

rvillar 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



85 




CUTAWAY SKIRT. 



FORM No. 36. 

We find it necessary to set the skirt and sidebody and forepart in this form as shown. 

The reason this is done is to find out if there is enough spring for skirt, as indicated 
by the dotted line running through skirt from point O to C. 

At point D there must be an opening of one-half inch. 
When the skirt, forepart and sidebody are matched, as shown, the frock coat is thus 
completed. 



86 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 




FULL DRESS SKIRT. 

FORM No. 37. 

The same process is used in placing the skirt, front and sidebody with the exception 
that the side body for full dress is not folded on front as much as for the cutaway. 

This being done to give you the straight run for spring of skirt, also take particular no- 
tice that the opening of skirt at E should be three-eighths of an inch, thus completing the 
full dress skirt. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



r 




SIDEBODY LENGTH. 



FORM No. 38. 



As it is necessary to match the sidebody and back when pattern is cut out, the 
same process is used, as shown, to test the lengt h of side body by placing the same at T and 
to fix the length of side body at S. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



Alterations and Changeable Forms. 



DESIGN No. 39. 



Changeable forms is what I call the most important thing for the ordinary cutter, as he 
finds it an every-day necessity to draft special patterns for disproportionate figures. 

The diagram on the opposite page is a treatise for changing the ordinary block pattern 
for the form required. 

To thoroughly understand this diagram the following is explained for the same : 

We find that point at A, the neck rises higher, as this process is used for slim anil 
stooping forms, according for height of neck required. 

The shoulder height at point B is raised higher or lower for shoulders required ac- 
cording to measure. 

Depth of arm is fixed according to measure for figure needed, and the waist length 
is made longer or shorter at point D, according to the measure needed. 

We find it necessary to advance at M for broad chest forms. 

The neck at S is advanced as it was explained for high necks and stooping forms. 

The point at F is changed according to measure required, and the shoulder point at 
R is raised or lowered- for form needed . 

At point J the side body is advanced and lowered for stooping form, and at P and 
E we also advance for the same form, and at O we raise the waist length and at M we take 
off. 

For corpulent forms advance at waist according for form required, also apply the front 
length at F. 

For broad back and hollow chest advance at H of back, and take off the same at M 
of chest. 

Thus giving you practical methods for changing the ordinary block pattern for dis- 
proportionate figures needed. 



Lof( 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



89 




CHANGEABLE FORMS. 



FORM No. 39. 



90 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



Table of Measurements. 



Regular Measures. 

COATS. 


Stout Measures. 

COATS. 


HEIGHT 


5 feet 5 feet 5 feet 5 feet 
4 in. 6 in. 8 in. 10 in. 


5 feet 5 feet 5 feet 5 feet 
5 in. 6 in. 7 in. 8 in, 


Arm Blade 

Shoulder Height 
Depth of Arm — 
Waist Length ••• 


11 ll'< 12 12# 

2% 3 3' + 3% 

sy 9 9y 10 

16 16/ 17 I7y 
27 28 28/ 29 
11/ 12 12', 13 
17 '/i 18 18^ 1SH 
34 36 38 40 
31 33 35 37 


12 12% 13 i3y 2 

3 % 33/ 8 3y 2 334 

9H 9ji 10}4 10% 
16# 17% 1734 18 
28 '2 29 29 / 30 
12 4 13/ 133 4 14'< 
17 17 17 17 
38 40 42 44 
38 41 44 46 


Front Shoulder 
Sleeve Length- 


Waist 




Regular Measures. 

VEST. 


Stout Measures. 

VEST. 


Opening 

Length 

Side Length 


12J4 13 13' 14 

25 25/ 26 26)4 
22 22' 23 23^ 


13 14 14' 15 
26 26' 27 27/ 
22/ 23 23/ 24 


rveg'ular Measures. 

PANTS. 


Stout Measures. 

PANTS. 


Outside Seam — 

Inside Seam 

Waist 


40 y 2 42 '2 44 44^ 
30' 32 33 33/ 
30 32 34 36 
36 38 40 42 
33 35 37 39 

17' is isy 19 

15)2 16 16'. 17 


41 41' 41 ' 2 41^ 
30 30/ 30'. 30/ 

38 41 44 46 

42 44 46 48 

39 41 42 ' 2 44/ 
19 19'. 20 20} 2 
17 17/ 18 18/ 


Seat 


Double Thigh ■••■ 






NOTICE. 

These measures are for Regular and Stout proportionate forms. 
When taking measures, try to correspond with above. 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



91 



DRAFTING INDEX. 



The following Alphabet is used for this system to establish the 
points, giving the Student a better idea, how to fix the points when 
drafting. 



A 


Starting. 


Y 


Sixths. 


H 


In the Half. 


C 


Eighths. 


D 


Depth of Arm. 


V 


Fourths. 


W 


Waist Length. 


u 


Twelfths. 


B 


Arm Blade. 


K 


Sixteenths. 


F 


Front Shoulder. 


J 


Halves. 


M 


Breast Measure. 


N 


Compass. 


X 


Waist Measure. 


S 


Shoulder Height. 


T 


Two-thirds. 


O 


Thirds. 



DEC 9 ?9G4 92 



SCHULMAN'S SYSTEM. 



INDEX. 

PAGE 

PREFACE 1 

PANTS DRAFTING. The Forepart - 2-3 

The Back 4-5 

The Stout Forepart • 6—7 

The Stout Back 8-9 

Tire Stooping Stout Form - 1 1 I 

The Bow Legs 12—13 

The Knock-Knees - - - - - - - -12—13 

The Bent Legs 12—13 

The Small and Large Thighs - - - - - -12 — 13 

The Bicycle Pants 14—15 

The Riding Breeches ....... 1 6 — 1 7 

The Large Seat and Flat Hips 1 8 — 1 9 

The Round Hip and Flat Seat 20—21 

How to Measure Pants ...... 22 23 

VEST DRAFTING. Single-Breasted - 24—25 

Double-Breasted 26—27 

S. B. Tuxedo 28-29 

D. B. Tuxedo - - - ■ 28-29 

Stout Vests 30-31 

S. B. Notch Collar 32-33 

D. B. Collars 32-33 

How to take the Measure - - - - - - 34 — 35 

The Vest Measure 34—35 

COAT DRAFTING. S. B. Sack 36-39 

D. B. Sack 40-41 

Tuxedo 42 — 43 

Stooping Form --------- 44 — 45 

Chicken Breast -------- 46—47 

High Shoulder Form - - 48—49 

Sleeve Drafting - - - - ... 50 — 5 1 

Full Box Overcoat - - - - - - - 52—55 

D. B. Ulster -------- 56—57 

D. B. Ulster. The Collar - 58 

Stout Sack --------- 58—61 

Stooping Stout and Large Waist - - - - - - 62 — 65 

Broad Chest Stout - - - - - - - 66 — 68 

S. B. Frock - - - 69-71 

D. B. Frock 72—73 

Full Dress Coat - - 74-75 

Stout S. B. Frock - - - - - - - 76-79 

Close Cape --------- 80 - 8 1 

The Inverness Cape ------- 82 — 83 

Long Roll Collar - - - 84 

Cutaway Skirt -------- 85 

Full Dress Skirt -------- 86 

Sidebody Length -------- 87 

Alterations and Changeable Forms ----- 88 — 89 

TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS --------- 90 

DRAFTING INDEX - 91 



fcSSH^H&S 



m 



m 



'e> 



U£ 



